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Category: Research

Posts in which we talk about research

Are Lizzie Bennett’s fine eyes or Miss Woodhouse’s delicate complexion more than a fortuitous gift of Nature? What weapons did the Regency lady have in her cosmetic arsenal?

More than you might think. Some–hair pomades made of pork fat and scented with essential oils–are not the sort of things you’d want to read, write, or even think about. The white foundation used by the former generation was lead-based and could ruin a woman’s complexion, if not kill her. The companion red for the clown look so popular then was mostly harmless, but could be expensive, made of safflower, cochineal, brazilwood, or sandalwood.

Favorite scents, for soap, lotions, and face-washes, included many ingredients we’d associate nowadays with cooking–cinnamon, cloves, citrus, cardamom–as well as amber, musk, violet, rose, linden flowers, and elder. No, I have no idea what elder smelled like!

It’s possible to make your own skincare potions with ingredients found in the kitchen–here are a couple I’ve actually tried.

Cleanser:
Grind up oatmeal in a food processor, add some honey (this is all to taste, I don’t measure this sort of thing). You might even want to heat it slightly. Massage into face. Rinse off.

Toner:
Rosewater (you can buy it at an Indian grocery store) beaten into one egg white. Let dry on face, rinse off.

And here’s one I haven’t tried, but it has a beautiful name–Queen of Hungary Water–and I intend to make some (when the mint is obliging enough to emerge and I can borrow some rose petals and lavender from my neighbors). I will post before and after pictures. It’s recommended as an astringent, aftershave, deodorant, hair and skin tonic and even as an inhaled headache remedy:

1 part roses
1 part lavender
1 part rosemary
1 part sage
1 part orange peel
1 part lemon peel
2 parts mint
To 2 ounces apple cider vinegar, add 2 ounces of the above herbal formula. Put in an airtight glass jar, let steep for about 2 weeks. Strain and add 1 1/2 cups pure distilled rosewater. Pour into an airtight decanter and use daily.

Go to this site, http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Prairie/8088/skin.html for more of the same. And do you have anything in the kitchen you enjoy slathering onto your face (other than accidental chocolate and ice cream smearage?)

Janet

So here I was tearing out my hair. February 21 is not a particularly auspicious day when it comes to exciting births, deaths, or events. So I thought I’d go and look up some newspapers for February 21, 1813. After a spectacular fail at a site where I would have had to pay, I found that, joy of joys, The Georgian Newspaper Project is once again online, with archives 1770-1800 of The Bath Chronicle. Or maybe it always has been and I’d mislaid it. Thank you, thank you, to all the volunteers who put this together.

455553I had a quick look to see what was going on in February in Bath in various years. Some of it was the stuff of scandal–look at this from February 8, 1770: Finance: Robert Yeeles of Longdean, Wilts repudiates liabilities of his wife Mary Yeeles, from date of advert. She has eloped & is not to be trusted.

The city was a hotbed of crime. This, and most of the examples below are from February 2, 1786. I think this is interesting because of the variety of fancy goods available in one shop. Crime: robberies – from Wm Moore’s shop, Orange Grove, Bath. Shell inkstand mounted in silver & 2 silver pens (12 months ago); pearl jessamine fancy pin – value 4 guin (1 month ago); 4′ 6″ oilcloth umbrella (on 22 Feb). Reward 5 guin each item on recovery & conviction, or 2 guin/ea if being pawned or sold.

Then there’s the case of the great horse exchange. While robbers looted Mr. Moore’s shop, criminals roamed the countryside. Crime: horse theft – iron grey gelding stolen on 30 Jan, the property John Brittan, Dyrham, Gloucs. Reward for information leading to conviction from John Brittan of 1 guin over amount allowed by Act of Parliament. But on the same day, this notice was posted: Notices: abandoned horse – brown mare left in field where iron grey gelding removed (property of John Brittan, Dyrham). Owner requested to reclaim.

While in Bath, you’d probably order tea, coffee and candles (tea and coffee, yes, but candles in the same shop?) from Coles tea warehouse. Goods: fine fresh teas, Coles tea warehouse, 7 Northgate St, Bath. 16 varieties tea. Best Bohea 2s, Congou leaf 2s 6d, Congou tea 3s, very good do 4s, very good Souchong 5s, v fine do 6s, superfine do 7s, fine green 3s 6d, fine single 4s 6d, v fine do 5s. But another ad mentions imported cowslip flavour 10s. That surprised me. Although you’d expect to find herbal teas for medicinal use, you wouldn’t expect to find them in a tea and coffee (and candles) store. Cowslip tea’s main use is as a sedative. And imported from where? It’s native to England.

More luxury goods. I almost feel sorry I’m two centuries late for this sale: Fashion: sale of silks by James & Peter Ferry, retiring silk weavers & mercers, cnr Gallaway’s Bldgs, Bath. Remainder of stock at a quarter less than any shop or warehouse in England, includes crepes & bombasines.

Posh arrivals to Bath were announced in the newspaper. Visitors: arrivals in Bath – Hon Mr Williams [no other titled people], Admiral Collins. Sometimes “no other titled people” was shortened to NOTP.

The fashionable churches demanded reservations: Churches: Octogon Chapel – no access to pews for visitors unless seats reserved via clerk, Mr Bullman at Mr Herschel’s in New King St, Bath; or at vestry 1 hr before services on Sundays, Wednesdays & Fridays. And yes, that is Mr. William Herschel, organist, composer, and astronomer whose house on New King Street is now a museum.

_41353654_bath_chron203And if you wanted to leave the city of luxury and pleasure, you’d turn to the newspaper: Travel: coaches Bath to London, summary – a) Bristol & Bath mailcoach from Three Tuns at 5.30pm; b) coach from Lamb Inn at 4pm; c) coach from Three Tuns & Lamb Inns at 4am. Inside passengers only £1 10s. Perfomed Willimas & Co Bath, Wilson & Co London.

I love this stuff! What do you think the story is behind the eloping Mrs. Yeeles or the great horse exchange?

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Highclere Castle I was watching Downton Abbey last night (no spoilers- I know not everyone has seen the end yet) and after the episode there was a feature on Highclere Castle, the country house and estate that “play” Downton Abbey in the mini-series.

The house as it exists today was remodeled in 1839-42 in the style of the new Houses of Parliament so it did not exist in “our” Regency time, but, in the late 18th century the 1000 acre parkland was designed by Capability Brown and developed by the second Earl of Carnavon. At scenic points in the park the Earl placed follies to add to the beauty of the  landscape.

Follies are extravagant buildings constructed just for show and for no other purpose. They were popular among the wealthy in the 18th century, often inspired by Roman and Greek ruins gentlemen had seen on their grand tour, but they could also mimic old English ruins,  castles and towers and abbeys.

Follies

Highclere Castle

Neoclassical Temple Folly Highclere Castle Gardens

Gothic_Temple,_Painshill_Park_-_geograph.org.uk_-_101624

Gothic Temple Painshill Park

Painshill-Abbey1

Abbey Painshill Park

Brizlee Tower

Brizlee Tower

If you could have a folly, which one of these would you choose? Or would you prefer some other folly?

Remember there is still time to comment on Michelle Willingham’s Interview and earn a chance at one of four free books. I’ll select the winners at random after midnight tonight ET.

 

Five years ago (yes, this blog has been going for that long and more) I blogged about visiting Montpelier, James Madison’s house in Virginia. Last weekend I finally got back to see the house in its restored glory. I was worried I wouldn’t like it as much as I did last time when it was a construction zone, down to lathe and plaster. I remember standing in the drawing room and feeling shivers down my spine when the docent said that Jefferson, Lafayette, and Madison had all been in this room together, and that analysis of nail holes gave them clues as to where Madison had hung his paintings. Now, with the room fully restored, and the paintings (or reproductions thereof) hung, it was the full reveal–beautifully done but lacking that leap of the imagination the room demanded in its unrestored state.

No pics allowed in the house, but I took a few of the outside. Here’s the view looking west toward the Blue Ridge Mountains, barely visible on the horizon, the final frontier of the republic at that time.

When Lafayette visited he gave Madison a cedar seedling which grew into this magnificent tree, and one of Madison’s black walnuts survives next to it.

The garden created by the Dupont family, who were the last private owners of the house, is quite lovely, even when there’s not a whole lot in bloom. It’s full of bits and pieces they picked up in Europe (ah those were the days).

There’s a lot of interest now in the slaves who worked on Madison’s estate and excavations have revealed the buildings where they lived and worked. Here are the reconstructions of those buildings. One of their most famous slaves was Paul Jennings, who did the heavy lifting when Dolley Madison rescued the Gilbert Stuart painting of George Washington from the White House when the British invaded. He was also present at Madison’s death. His memoirs, A Colored Man’s Reminiscences of James Madison are available on google.

The restoration is not yet complete. We saw a room full of odds and ends that may or may not have been owned by Madison. Madison didn’t mark his books, astonishingly, and when Dolley sold the house in 1844 to her son from an earlier marriage, he sold stuff right and left to pay off gambling debts. There was also a room where the original plaster/lathe was revealed and an exhibit of costumes worn by Eve Best as Dolley Madison in the PBS American Experience episode.

Tell me about your favorite historical sites or places you’d like to visit.

Somewhere (here, perhaps?) recently I learned of a new-to-me website, Hillman’s Hyperlinked and Searchable Chambers’ Book of Days. What a treasure this is!

The Chambers’ Book of Days, 1869 version, is organized according to calendar days and offers tidbits of history associated with those days. The tidbits might be of events or biographies, and also includes important births and deaths on the date. But it also contains some less momentous historical incidents.

Here’s one from March 12, 1825, titled The Traffic of Women’s Hair:

As a rule, the women of England do not sell their hair. There is, however, in England, a large and regular demand for this article, to make those supposititious adornments which one sees in every hair-dresser’s window. It is stated that a hundred thousand pounds’ weight of human hair is required to supply the demand of the English market. It is mainly brought from the continent, where women of the humbler rank may be said to cherish their hair with a view to selling it for money. Light hair comes mostly from Belgium and Germany, dark from France and Italy. There is a Dutch company, the agents of which make annual visits to the towns and villages of Germany, buying the tresses of poor women.

In France the trade is mostly in the hands of agents, sent out by large firms at Paris. These agents, going chiefly to the Breton villages, take with them a supply of silks, laces, ribbons, haberdashery, and cheap jewellery, which they barter with the peasant women and girls for their tresses. Mr. Trollope, while travelling in Brittany, saw much of this singular hair-cropping going on; as the women in that province all wear close-fitting caps, the difference between the cropped and the uncropped was not so perceptible as it otherwise would have been. The general price is said to vary from about one franc to five francs for a head of hair half a pound to a pound in weight: but choice specimens occasionally command more than their weight in silver, owing to the eager competition of buyers to obtain them.

In England, something of this kind is going on in country villages, but not (it is supposed) to any great extent. A feeling of womanly pride rebels against it. Occasionally, however, evidence peeps out to show that poor Englishwomen know that there is a market for such a commodity. One instance of a ludicrous kind occurred at a metropolitan police-court some years ago.

On March 12th, 1825, the court was thronged by a number of poor women, who seemed excited and uncomfortable, and who whispered among themselves as to who should be the spokeswoman to tell the tale which all evidently desired should be told. At length one of them, with a manner half ashamed, told the magistrate that one Thomas Rushton, a barber, called at her poor abode one day, and asked politely to look at her hair. Whether she guessed his errand, is not clear: but she took off her cap at his bidding. He professed to be in raptures with the beauty of her hair, and offered her a guinea for it. Being in straitened circumstances she accepted the offer. The rogue at once took out his scissors, and cut off the whole of her hair. ‘See, your worship,’ said she, ‘what he has done.’ His worship did see, and found that there were only little stumps of hair left like pig’s bristles. The fellow put her hair in his hat, put the hat on his head, and ran off without giving her a single coin. All the other women in the court had been defrauded of their tresses in a similar way, and probably all on the same day—for the rogue could not afford to wait until the exploit got wind. The poor women declared that they had been rendered quite miserable when they came to show their husbands their cropped heads—which may well be imagined.

It may be added that, about a hundred years ago, when false hair was perhaps more in use than it is now, a woman residing in a Scotch burgh used to get a guinea from time to time for her tresses, which were of a bright golden hue.

 Being someone who has been traumatized more than once by a mere bad haircut, I can well imagine how these poor woman felt. To have your hair stolen must have been a very painful thing.
In 10th grade I remember telling a hairdresser that I wanted to grow out the layers in my hair. She took that to mean I wanted to match the shortest layer and I wound up with a haircut that resembled a little dutch boy. Oh, the trauma!!!!!! I had to send my sister onto the school bus ahead of me to warn my friends not to make fun of it.
What was your worst haircut?